Morocco Tours provided outstanding service from our first inquiry with a very prompt response from Brian. We provided Brian with a “wish list” of cities, of regions and personal interests, of lodging preferences and he put together an itinerary which satisfied all our requests. He made suggestions about activities/cities which we had not considered, and guided us to forego sites of less interest. Bethany kept us informed in a timely fashion and answered many questions during our planning stages. We began planning this trip in 2023 but had to cancel due to health reasons just 2 months prior to departure. The main office was most gracious in refunding the deposit which it did not have to—and we appreciated that gesture very much. We would most enthusiastically recommend Morocco Tours to anyone considering a visit to the country.
Youssef Maamri was our driver/guide and he was a most energetic, knowledgeable, and informed trip leader. His language skills are impressive, and we were never at a loss for words with Youssef. We found that with him as our driver, there could be conversation during the longer drives and we learned much from these periods. In addition, this meant that we could stop at any points of interest and know that Youssef could provide information, as well as bump into fellow guides, colleagues! This added so much to our travels to have that constant interaction, although it meant that Youssef was constantly “on duty.” We reached a degree of familiarity in 3 weeks such that he anticipated our interests or perceived a lack thereof, and adjusted the tour accordingly. We are not shoppers but there were items of interest which Youssef noted. He directed us to shops of interest but we never felt that we were being hustled or coerced to buy from any specific merchant. Youssef was always prompt (early) as to meeting time, available on the phone, willing to intercede as needed. We had the pleasure of meeting his wife and three children during our travels. This contact enabled us to learn much about a typical Moroccan family’s daily routines, concerns, joys……in so much as Youssef is a typical Moroccan.
What I (Ethel) found most memorable were the spontaneous moments when a contact was made with a local person. In Skoura, while Glen and I were chatting with a nurse in a small dispensary, a local man–Mustafa– approached Youssef and offered to show us his village, his plots of land, his home. We did then follow him on foot to meet with a local potter where Glen had a most interesting conversation with the potter. Then we proceeded to the man’s home where his wife welcomed us with tea, dates, freshly made bread, assorted snacks. We then met his daughter Laila who showed us how she baked the bread (and gave us the bread!), we saw his bath house, and met his wife. I think that if this man and his wife agrees, he could open his home to visitors and display the gracious hospitality of an ordinary Moroccan family. Could this be something adapted into a tour? Another memorable visit was to a medical “clinic” just outside of Erfoud where I spoke with the receptionist, the clinic administrator, the physician on duty, the midwife, and poked my head into some of the offices. There were patients waiting to be seen, so we kept the visit brief, but it was so interesting that I could have stayed much longer. The midwife asked if I wanted to remain for her examination of a young pregnant woman. O course I would have loved to, but it would not have been appropriate or ethical. This was a highlight of our visit indeed.
The day trip to Bhalil to visit the cave homes and the women making buttons was a pleasant surprise as was the visit to Sefrou. A Bhalil woman opened her home to our inspection, and a Sefrou baker lit a paper strip to show us the depths of his oven as well as answer numerous questions about his operation. I am firmly convinced that in more visited/cosmopolitan cities, this kind of openness would not be so forthcoming. In a “small” group of even 15 people, such encounters would be difficult. Visits to souks, medinas, kasbas, museums are a must for any visitor; however, to experience Morocco and meet its people, there must be personal interaction beyond that with a tour guide. In Marrakech we took a brass working class and Glen pounded out a shallow bowl, while I hammered decorations on a plate. The session was great fun, plus we were accompanied by a most personable interpreter named Ouiam Bourial who, in addition to translating the instructions, also provided candid views from a young woman’s perspective. It was refreshing to hear her views on some current issues, and to learn of her desire to become a licensed tour guide when she completes her English Lit degree. Her spoken English was most accomplished and her demeanor frank and friendly. We think that she would be an asset to the Morocco Tour team if an interpreter is needed in Marrakech. We have her permission to mention her services. Ouiam Bourial is listed with the agency Atelier d’Ailleurs Marrakech.
For sheer grandeur and majesty, the drive from Agadir to Tafroute in the Anti-Atlas Mountains was truly memorable. We marveled at the steep mountains and deep valleys where small homes dotted the landscape. Argan trees–shriveled from the drought, or green and vibrant with recent rain–appeared with their improbable goat climbers and completely enchanted us. The scenery rivalled that of European Alps, Alaskan mountain ranges, Asian forests; there was only the road, the mountains, a few vehicles, the rare goatherder. We would encourage all to make this drive except that the thought of hordes of people aboard huge busses on the narrow, winding, steep roads makes us shudder with images of future roadside cafes, displays of trinkets for sale, trash on the road/mountain side, degradation of the environment. Youssef remarked that he had rarely made the drive and I think that he too was enjoyed the drive.
Of course, the visits to the souks, the kasbas, the numerous historical sites were all fascinating and we enjoyed them. Youssef led us to these places with detailed explanations of their historical/cultural significance. We will admit that the information at times was overwhelming. Knowing that we disliked crowds, he found the times and places which avoided the largest contingent of group tours although they were not entirely avoidable. At those time, we were very grateful to be a group of 3 moving nimbly through the crowded alleys.
Memorable impressions:
small village market day crowded with people, dogs, cats, motorbikes, cars, donkey carts, produce, housewares, livestock.
butcher shops with hanging meat from which diners can select their cut which is then cooked to order.
trucks and buses with top-deck, open-air seating for people, sheep, goats, cows.
grand taxis packed with riders careening wildly along narrow roads.
busy streets clogged with double-parked vehicles which doesn’t appear to upset anyone.
amlou, pastries, olives, bread and honey bees at the breakfast table.
vehicles straddling the center line even when no other cars are in the area.
children with backpacks, dressed in white jackets, walking to/from school.
women escorting their young children to school, carrying the kids’ colorful packs.
cats, cats, more cats……………………………………did I mention cats?
hectares of olive groves, rose bushes, argan trees, orange trees, cannabis, alfalfa.
corn fields, potato harvesters, cats gnawing on fish heads, women totally covered except for bare feet wading in the ocean tide.
sheep in markets, goats in trees, cattle atop vans, tourists jammed into souks.
striking impressions at the tanneries: color/patterns for the eyes, noises from the workers/tourists, competing odors from the pits/spearmint sprig.
fishing boats, fresh seafood, ocean waves, sandy beaches, ancient bastions, salty air, morning fog.
construction cranes lining up across the horizon on approaching any large city with boxy, concrete shells standing in hopes of further development.
women standing in shallow river flow surrounded by mounds of colorful laundry.
women spinning agave fibers using repurposed windshield wiper motors.
men sitting in roadside cafes, boys chasing each other in the open fields, girls holding hands.
cats waiting for fallen crumbs, cats and kittens in cardboard boxes, cats scrounging by fishing boats, cats surrounded by cats amid cats.
French fries as a side to almost everything, including French fries.
the sound of tree branches being whacked with a stick as walnuts are dropped and harvested.
tajines for sale along the road; tajines cooking atop gas fires; tajines served on plastic tables, atop fine linen, on warped wooden boards.
agricultural variations with farmers working irrigation systems, using machinery or donkeys, moving alfalfa on their backs or piled atop a tri-porter vehicle.
men and boys hauling water for many miles using donkeys.
So, in summary, we had a fantastic trip which we will remember always! We most heartily commend Morocco Tours for outstanding service and recommend it to anyone considering travels to Morocco—especially a private, bespoke tour.
Glen and Ethel (Sept, 2024)