Although several weeks have passed since our return from Morocco, a large part of me feels like it is still there in that remarkable country. So remarkable that putting it all into words is proving to be somewhat of a challenge.
It is difficult to bullet point highlights because true to Hamid’s predictions, every day was a highlight. It was as if each day became a new and separate adventure. The mosque in Casablanca was spectacular, of course, as were the sights in Rabat. Chefchaouen was magical. We arrived at night when the hillside was sparkling with lights. By day, the mountains and the call to prayer greeted us in a very emotional way. Here and in every city and village, we were able to visit small shops and watch craftsmen at work. Never did we feel as if we were merely “drive by” experiencing the country from behind the windows of a tour bus. Our interactions were close up and personal. Our tour included a visit to Volubilis, which for historyaholics as ourselves was glorious. The same can be said for Meknes and Moulay Idriss. Fes is an experience in a category all by itself. The medina and the views from afar were breathtaking. We especially enjoyed visiting the cooperative. (Our tagine purchases are arriving soon!!!) Oh, one additional word: Hammam!!!
For me, perhaps the biggest surprise was the journey from Fes to the desert. Most travel guides talk about the major cities and tourist destinations. The Ziz valley doesn’t get nearly as much ink. Wow. Besides the stunning views into the valley, we stopped at a stone works and several agricultural sites where we learned about fossils and farming in a desert environment. Again, for us these were unexpected, bonus adventures. One has to see the Ziz River terminus to understand its uniqueness.
Speaking of the desert, what can one say about spending a night in the Sahara. We enjoyed the traditional music in Merzouga, but what could top the evening in the desert camp? The camel ride may have seemed a bit contrived for tourists, but I think we all felt like kids, it was so much fun. Sitting on the dunes capturing the sunset will always be a memory of a lifetime. So will our visits to various kasbahs. When we planned our trip, one reason for traveling from the desert to Skoura was to experience the route of a thousand kasbahs. It was well worth it. Hamid selected our stops quite well, and to walk through the kasbahs he chose was thrilling. The Todra gorge was also spectacular. Oh, wait, irrigation tunnels. Unbelievable!! Chalk that up as another “must see” for future clients. As you predicted, Ouarzazate is a busy place, and Ait Benhaddouh is overrun with tourists. Hamid was wise to advise us to limit our time there, but we did see this dramatic structure so no one was dissatisfied. What else; the ride through the mountains was dramatic and thoroughly wowed us all.
Marrakech is, well, Marrakech. I can’t offer enough superlatives. We enjoyed our exploration of the “Berber pharmacy.” And the Jemaa el-Fnaa was a do-not-miss experience at night. Again, a travel book does not capture what it is really like to walk through the crowd and enjoy the music and festivities. Let me move to Essaouira. Our group did get to stop at an Argan cooperative. It was exactly what we had learned from several travel features, and our visit was another highlight. We also came to realize that adding Essaouira to our itinerary was a great decision. Such beauty along the ocean. The medina, the fortress, and the fishing docks were also an awesome trio of highlights. So, in summary, our itinerary captured every expectation we ever had for this trip, and working with you to construct it was extremely valuable. Although I would not characterize it as a negative, it was at times stimulus overload. We could not have added any more activity into our days than we had. In hindsight, I would advise friends considering such a trip NOT to incorporate as much into the same time frame, or consider adding days to slow the pace somewhat. Or an alternative might be to begin each day earlier, but I suppose that can be problematic, too. For example, the day we left Merzouga, our travel day was so long that we did not arrive in Skoura until late in the day. This really limited our enjoyment time at the wonderful L’Ma Lodge. Speaking of accommodations, every property you chose was a winner. That includes Dar Jasmine with its spectacular view and the truly grand Palais Amani and Riad Kniza. The only miss I can point to was the room we received at Madada Mogador. The bed was very uncomfortable, and the electrical wiring in the room had a “short,” which posed a potential danger….but the view from the roof was amazing!
Driver and guide: Abdulhadi was quite pleasant, and even though he spoke little English, we interacted well. He also must have ice water in his veins. He may be the most careful driver we could imagine, especially after seeing him negotiate his way through the most frenetic traffic conditions. Very impressive. Now, Hamid Zerheri. What can I say? Our wives wanted to take him home, and I thought we were all going to cry with sadness the morning he brought us to the airport. We will miss him always. From the moment we met him, he was totally professional and extremely organized. He gave us an explicit roadmap every day of what was in store, and his temperament was always pleasant and protective of our safety and needs. Our first encounter was quite formal, but in brief time, he became much more casual and comfortable, all the while still quite professional. He has a great sense of humor. As important to us, he revealed a strong passion for the history and culture of Morocco. Again, when our group travels, we are looking for more than a typical “tourist” experience. It was clear from the beginning that Hamid wanted to “teach” us about his country’s traditions, cultural heritage, and future. And that is exactly what we had hoped for. Of special note, our final evening in Marrakech, after having previously dined at fine restaurants, we asked Hamid to take us to a restaurant that locals would typically visit. He took us to Frikiss (?). It proved to be one of the best parts of the tour!! There were periods when we would bombard Hamid with questions of all sorts. He displayed an authentic passion to answer our questions. And at times, he would quiz us, as if to test whether we had been listening. On our final day, while we were traveling in our van, we began to quiz ourselves, which brought a big smile to Hamid’s face. I don’t know what the exact nature of his employment with Experience It Tours is (I assume a contractor), but don’t lose him!!
Your company communicated well with us from start to finish, and you have been responsive to all questions and issues along the way. Every interaction has been carefree and comfortable. We also enjoyed meeting Jill during the tour! I want to share a couple of points that may be beneficial. Although we never had a moment where we felt we were in the dark about the itinerary or activities, some details might be better explained in advance. For instance, we knew that our guide and driver would be with us throughout the day and into the evening. This is one reason we chose your company. We did not know, however, that Hamid and Abdulhadi would be dining and staying overnight elsewhere. I would not say this was especially awkward, but perhaps it is an American trait not to want to exclude our companions, and I know our wives felt…guilty…about “abandoning” our guides while we ran off, so to speak, to splurge during the evening. We understand the nature of the business relationship, but initially we had to adjust to it. Also, Hamid always gave us a clear “road map” of the coming day’s events and schedule. The only item that was unclear and a bit awkward was the handling of tips at restaurants. Because Hamid paid the bill, we did not really get to see it, except for beverages that were not covered. A couple of times, our beverage bill included water. (Included or not included?) It was also unclear how much tip to leave. Eventually, I arranged to have Hamid scan the restaurant bill and send it to my phone so we could calculate the appropriate tip while we were still sitting at our table. It wasn’t the best arrangement.
I would wholeheartedly recommend Moroccotours.org. The way our trip was constructed is a model I would urge just about anyone to follow. Having a guide and driver is ideal. We never had to worry about the whereabouts of the van or the logistics. Hamid would alert Abdulhadi when we were ready to travel, and our “magic carpet ride” would pull up in front of us. Even during a travel day, when we knew we would be in the van for several hours, we had scheduled relief breaks and several surprise stops, such as a small olive press operation in a village near El Jadida. We joked that Hamid must personally know half the people living in every village along the tour! I still am puzzled by your use of multiple business names and I am somewhat unclear as to whether you are what I hear termed a “pre-packager,” but you and other staff members were always responsive, and if clients are concerned about accountability, you get my vote.
Brian, everyone on our trip experienced some degree of melancholy when we returned. We are smitten with Morocco. And we now understand how the private tour that you offer is by far the best way to explore the country and truly “experience it!” At my next opportunity, I will select some photos to share.
Best regards,
Allen M (October, 2024)